My friend Sheila and I decided to take a few weeks off and hit the road. Our aim was to get to Kerikeri in the North to visit my cousin, taking our time and visiting as many hot pools as we could on the way, armed with a copy of Sally Jackson's Hot Springs of New Zealand book. We chose March for our road trip because it was school term time, and we both love early Autumn weather. Sheila did the driving, (a) because she has the better car, and (b) she is a much better driver than I am, (c) because she has visited most of the places we travelled through already and knows the country well and knows how to get to places, and (d) I haven't been anywhere much and am a lousy driver who hates driving. (This is a clue as to why I haven't been around the country much.)
Other than looking for hot springs, we decided not to plan anything but just go where the mood took us, avoiding big cities whenever we could.
Kerikeri doesn't show on this map, but it's in the Bay of Islands.
Woodville - Rotorua
Sheila picked me up and we left Norsewood about 9am on Monday, 7th dropping Magee off at the cattery in Waipukurau on the way. Then over the Napier - Taupo highway, with a stop in Taupo for a browse around the charity shops, where I bought a very nice cotton top for $4, then lunch at Piccolo's. I had salmon and kumara cakes and salad, which were delicious. We were tempted by DeBrett's and thought about staying the night in Taupo but decided to push on to Rotorua, where we stayed in a motel which had a mineral outdoor pool, and private spa pools, so we were able to get our hot water fix.
Rotorua - Whakatane - Awakeri
We left Rotorua on the morning of the 8th and stopped briefly at Lake Rotoiti where we encountered these somewhat aggressive black swans. Sadly we had no bread to give them so they weren't very pleased with us.
This swan was determined to get some bread. We didn't have any but he just kept on coming, so we felt it best to make a hasty retreat back to the car.
Lake Okataina
The lion outside Whakatane library (he looks a little toothless to me.)
The statue is a tribute to Margaret Mahy, (one of my heroines) and her book The Lion in the Meadow.
Ohope Beach - stunning!
Our cabin. Spartan but spotless.
Happy birthday! Avocado, cherry tomatoes, cold roast beef, mussels, nuts, olives, salad,
and cheap plonk. A feast!
After dinner we swam in the outdoor pool until it closed at sundown and then we soaked in one of the indoor spas. I was back in the outdoor pool as soon as it opened in the morning - can't get enough of it!
Early morning - except for that one bloke clinging to the side, the pool was deserted - bliss.
Awakeri - Mt Maunganui - Matamata - Waihi - Katikati - Athenree
We left Awakeri reluctantly, vowing to make a return visit (but getting a better unit next time.) Our next stop was Mount Maunganui, via Tauranga. Sheila couldn't believe I had never been to the Mount, but there you are, I hadn't. I haven't seen very much of New Zealand at all, which is shameful. Sheila, on the other hand, has been just about everywhere which was very useful. The Mount is a lovely spot, I can see why it's so popular. But I don't think I want to live there - too many people!
We left Awakeri reluctantly, vowing to make a return visit (but getting a better unit next time.) Our next stop was Mount Maunganui, via Tauranga. Sheila couldn't believe I had never been to the Mount, but there you are, I hadn't. I haven't seen very much of New Zealand at all, which is shameful. Sheila, on the other hand, has been just about everywhere which was very useful. The Mount is a lovely spot, I can see why it's so popular. But I don't think I want to live there - too many people!
Mt Maunganui
After Tauranga we intended to head to Katikati for lunch, but we made a bit of a goof and missed the turnoff and ended up in Matamata. Tauranga traffic was a bit of a nightmare so it was a forgivable mistake and as we weren't on any timetable or agenda it didn't matter one bit. I hadn't been to Matamata so it was quite serendipitous, in fact.
After consulting maps we decided to head for Waihi via Te Aroha and Paeroa.
It's obligatory when in Paeroa to stop and photograph the big bottle.
We reached Waihi about 3pm and kept on to Waihi Beach, then decided to go a bit further along the peninsula to check out Athenree Hot Springs, which we'd read about in the Hot Springs book. It turned out to be very attractive, so we promptly booked ourselves into what they called a "deluxe chalet", deciding that we deserved a bit of luxury. It turned out to be very comfortable and spacious and only a few steps away from the mineral pools. So comfortable in fact that we stayed two nights.
Sheila's sturdy steed parked outside our "deluxe chalet". We managed to get an amazing amount of stuff in the car! Sheila and I both pack using the principle that if you can't decide what to take, take everything.
The smaller hotter pool - about 38 - 40 degrees.
The bigger pool - about 35 degrees.
Both pools
Sheila enjoying the late afternoon sun
Katikati
We finally got to visit Katikati, aka "Mural town", to have a look around and have some lunch. It's a small town with a relaxed and laid back ambience, known for its street art. Sadly, cafe culture doesn't seem to have reached Katikati yet so we bought a few choice bits and pieces to take back to Athenree for dinner.
We finally got to visit Katikati, aka "Mural town", to have a look around and have some lunch. It's a small town with a relaxed and laid back ambience, known for its street art. Sadly, cafe culture doesn't seem to have reached Katikati yet so we bought a few choice bits and pieces to take back to Athenree for dinner.
I love this statue in the Katikati main street, of the old feller reading his paper with his hopeful dog looking up at him waiting for him to throw his ball.
Waihi
We had a good look around Waihi, which is a rather charming small town, especially interesting because of its mining history. It also has some excellent cafes, I am happy to say. The huge Cornish Pumphouse dominates the town. I was fascinated by it. It's a relic of the original mine in Waihi - the richest gold mine in New Zealand (1878 - 1952). It was built around 1904, from a design used in the tin mines of Cornwall.
. 
Waihi
We had a good look around Waihi, which is a rather charming small town, especially interesting because of its mining history. It also has some excellent cafes, I am happy to say. The huge Cornish Pumphouse dominates the town. I was fascinated by it. It's a relic of the original mine in Waihi - the richest gold mine in New Zealand (1878 - 1952). It was built around 1904, from a design used in the tin mines of Cornwall.
. The Pumphouse
Waihi from the Pumphouse
Waihi. I was struck by the symmetry of this pub in its splendid corner location.
The disused mine workings - with a rail to stop you falling in
Athenree - Paeroa - Thames - Whangarei
On Friday morning we left Athenree after breakfast and set out for Whangarei, visiting Paeroa (again) and Thames on the way. We happened across the Thames School of Mines which for some reason struck me as amusing. We had a look around inside.
After lunch in Thames it was a matter of getting on with it. This was the longest haul of our trip and a long drive for Sheila. It was also, frankly, a bit tedious because we decided the best thing was to put our heads down and stick to the motorway and just keep driving until we got through the concrete nightmare of Auckland. "The Great Wen" was William Cobbett's name for London, and to my mind it suits the urban sprawl that is Auckland. You can see from the map that Auckland is on a narrow isthmus. There is simply no way to get to the North without going through the Great Wen, you can't avoid it. (Unless you go by sea.) So we just gritted our teeth and stuck to State Highway One and drove. (Or at least Sheila did. I just gritted my teeth.)
Whangarei
We got into Whangarei around 4pm and that's when the fun started. Sheila had been to Whangarei, but years ago and things have a habit of changing - the city has grown and familiar landmarks have gone, or changed out of recognition. We couldn't find anywhere that looked like a motel or a holiday park, and it was the rush hour which made driving when you don't know where you're going a real pain in the butt. We drove around and drove around, including right to the very end of Whangarei Heads and back, which at least has the virtue of attractive scenery. I decided that I hated Whangarei. According to the guide books Whangarei is jam-packed with accommodation but could we find any?
Finally in despair we took the road out of the city and voila! A hotel! We jumped at it and booked ourselves in. It was more than we could afford and we would much rather have found a motel but it was getting dark and we were getting worried. It was a dreary hotel too, the fridge in my room didn't work, though Sheila's did, her tv didn't work but the one in my room was ok, the hot water was unreliable, and so on. And on. The restaurant was too expensive to even begin to contemplate eating there, and the swimming pool was green and slimy and disgusting looking and there wouldn't be a bribe big enough to get me into it, and I can swim anywhere. But at least we had a roof over our heads for the night.
Of course when we drove out the next morning we found umpteen motels just along the road ... Sod's Law in action.
Whangarei - Kawakawa - Paihia - Waitangi - Kerikeri
At least the bed was comfy. No paper at the door in the morning - don't hotels do that any more? We couldn't get away fast enough.
So back into the trusty steed we scrambled and set off for the Far North. Huzzah! From Whangarei the roadside scenery has a decided sub-tropical look and feel about it. Very lush and green.
Kawakawa
We had to make a stop in Kawakawa, aka "train town" or less attractively, "toilet town" (because of the famous Hundertwasser public toilet.) I've always wanted to to visit Kawakawa, being a big Hundertwasser fan.
It's interesting how many NZ placenames, especially in the north, consist of a repeated four letter word beginning with "K". Kawakawa, Katikati, Kerikeri, Karikari ...
Anyway. The toilets lived up to expectations though they did pong a little, to be honest. But what public toilet doesn't. They were certainly busy. Naturally I took some photos when inside.
On Friday morning we left Athenree after breakfast and set out for Whangarei, visiting Paeroa (again) and Thames on the way. We happened across the Thames School of Mines which for some reason struck me as amusing. We had a look around inside.
After lunch in Thames it was a matter of getting on with it. This was the longest haul of our trip and a long drive for Sheila. It was also, frankly, a bit tedious because we decided the best thing was to put our heads down and stick to the motorway and just keep driving until we got through the concrete nightmare of Auckland. "The Great Wen" was William Cobbett's name for London, and to my mind it suits the urban sprawl that is Auckland. You can see from the map that Auckland is on a narrow isthmus. There is simply no way to get to the North without going through the Great Wen, you can't avoid it. (Unless you go by sea.) So we just gritted our teeth and stuck to State Highway One and drove. (Or at least Sheila did. I just gritted my teeth.)
Whangarei
We got into Whangarei around 4pm and that's when the fun started. Sheila had been to Whangarei, but years ago and things have a habit of changing - the city has grown and familiar landmarks have gone, or changed out of recognition. We couldn't find anywhere that looked like a motel or a holiday park, and it was the rush hour which made driving when you don't know where you're going a real pain in the butt. We drove around and drove around, including right to the very end of Whangarei Heads and back, which at least has the virtue of attractive scenery. I decided that I hated Whangarei. According to the guide books Whangarei is jam-packed with accommodation but could we find any?
Finally in despair we took the road out of the city and voila! A hotel! We jumped at it and booked ourselves in. It was more than we could afford and we would much rather have found a motel but it was getting dark and we were getting worried. It was a dreary hotel too, the fridge in my room didn't work, though Sheila's did, her tv didn't work but the one in my room was ok, the hot water was unreliable, and so on. And on. The restaurant was too expensive to even begin to contemplate eating there, and the swimming pool was green and slimy and disgusting looking and there wouldn't be a bribe big enough to get me into it, and I can swim anywhere. But at least we had a roof over our heads for the night.
Of course when we drove out the next morning we found umpteen motels just along the road ... Sod's Law in action.
Whangarei - Kawakawa - Paihia - Waitangi - Kerikeri
At least the bed was comfy. No paper at the door in the morning - don't hotels do that any more? We couldn't get away fast enough.
So back into the trusty steed we scrambled and set off for the Far North. Huzzah! From Whangarei the roadside scenery has a decided sub-tropical look and feel about it. Very lush and green.
Kawakawa
We had to make a stop in Kawakawa, aka "train town" or less attractively, "toilet town" (because of the famous Hundertwasser public toilet.) I've always wanted to to visit Kawakawa, being a big Hundertwasser fan.
It's interesting how many NZ placenames, especially in the north, consist of a repeated four letter word beginning with "K". Kawakawa, Katikati, Kerikeri, Karikari ...
Anyway. The toilets lived up to expectations though they did pong a little, to be honest. But what public toilet doesn't. They were certainly busy. Naturally I took some photos when inside.
I loved the bottle wall.
This face looks at you as you sit on the toilet. It seems amused.
It's a pretty little town. An old steam loco gives rides down the main street. I don't suppose there are many towns in New Zealand (or anywhere else) with a train in the main street.
Kerikeri
From Kawakawa on to Paihia (fabulous beach, pretty town but full of tourists) and Waitangi, where my map reading skills managed to get us lost. Not that it mattered in such a laid back place. We finally reached Kerikeri just in time for lunch. Plenty of cafes to choose from here! We cruised around for a while looking for somewhere to stay and settled on a motel set in an orange orchard, modest and not flash but clean and comfortable and handy to town. And it had a pool and a spa. The pool wasn't heated - bit of a shock after hot springs bathing - but excellent for cooling down. Kerikeri was hot, even in March.
I loved the look of these bunches of beetroot at the Farmers' Market and just had to photograph them.
My cousin's partner asked her what she wanted for Christmas and she jokingly replied "a pool". So he put in this pool for her. (He doesn't swim at all.) There's devotion for you! They hadn't quite finished laying the turf around it on the day we visited. Needless to say we spent most of the afternoon lying around in the water, catching up and gossiping.
That's the end of the story - we spent a few days in Kerikeri and the next few days were spent driving home. On the way home we stopped at Waiwera, for a night and sampled the pools there; and had another night in Rotorua. Pleasant, but nothing exciting to write about and no photos to put up. But it was a great trip and we were incredibly lucky with the weather - warm and dry, light winds, and not a drop of rain the whole time. February - March - April really is the best time to travel in New Zealand.
